The internet is easy to use to learn about parasitic organisms that infect horses, how to detect them, and what options are available to eliminate the problem. You'll find horse wormers that use tested chemicals to kill internal parasites and natural, chemical-free preparations. Pasture-management methods are important, as well.
Although it's helpful to know all the organisms that infest horses, owners usually only have to confront a few of them. However, tapeworms, intestinal threadworms, large and small strongyles, ascarids or roundworms, bots, pinworms, lumgworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms are all potential problems. Fecal and blood tests identify which parasites are infecting a particular animal.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Owners should know which worms are prevalent in their locality. These may change with the seasons. For example, bot flies lay their yellow eggs on legs, chest, and underbelly in the summer. The eggs are ingested by the horse when they scratch themselves, and the larvae hatch inside the stomach. This is not a problem that early spring worming needs to address. Overgrazed pastures lead to more reinfestation, so worming will have to be more frequent.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
Natural products include diatomaeceous earth, a powder made of fossilized plankton which abrades worms inside the digestive tract without side effects. There are also herbal formulas and homepathic remedies. Products of both chemical and alternative formulation come in liquids, powders, pellets, and pastes.
Even if droppings are quickly picked up and worming is not necessary on a regular basis, a fecal check is recommended twice yearly. Keeping animals parasite-free is part of the owner's responsibility. Owners can depend on their vet's advice or establish their own schedule.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
Although it's helpful to know all the organisms that infest horses, owners usually only have to confront a few of them. However, tapeworms, intestinal threadworms, large and small strongyles, ascarids or roundworms, bots, pinworms, lumgworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms are all potential problems. Fecal and blood tests identify which parasites are infecting a particular animal.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Owners should know which worms are prevalent in their locality. These may change with the seasons. For example, bot flies lay their yellow eggs on legs, chest, and underbelly in the summer. The eggs are ingested by the horse when they scratch themselves, and the larvae hatch inside the stomach. This is not a problem that early spring worming needs to address. Overgrazed pastures lead to more reinfestation, so worming will have to be more frequent.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
Natural products include diatomaeceous earth, a powder made of fossilized plankton which abrades worms inside the digestive tract without side effects. There are also herbal formulas and homepathic remedies. Products of both chemical and alternative formulation come in liquids, powders, pellets, and pastes.
Even if droppings are quickly picked up and worming is not necessary on a regular basis, a fecal check is recommended twice yearly. Keeping animals parasite-free is part of the owner's responsibility. Owners can depend on their vet's advice or establish their own schedule.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
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