Nothing really screams summer-time in the southern US states like the crape myrtle tree in bloom with its pink flower petals pointing up toward the sky. Generally they grow so nicely and their flowers are so long lasting that people will care for them lovingly as they would care for a member of the family. That is except for the late fall when it is the best time to prune them.
Tragically most people are uninformed about the damages they cause when they cut these trees back to almost nothing. This generally leaves an unnatural brush looking stumps where there was a beautiful and majestic tree standing. Many times this will not only cause the growth to become stunted but can also lead to them growing into an unnatural sickly bush like shrub.
Just as there is a correct time to prune them there is also a proper way to prune them. Many times people severely cut them back thinking this will help them produce more flowering branches the following years. In truth this often causes a shorter blooming time, weaker branches and delayed flowering. This practice is as harmful as it is unnecessary for most trees.
Generally late winter or a few months before spring-time is typically best for pruning them. The best method to use is to try enhancing its naturally unique form rather than attempting to force it to take an unnatural shape or form. In a properly pruned tree, the branches will grow up and out not up and then branching into the center.
Look at the tree and follow its trunk and limbs up. Try to look more at the inner than the outer edges of it. The branches you find which twist into other branches at the inside of the plant should be removed. Many people also cut out limbs that are growing incorrectly or is twisted up in a strange and unnatural way.
To remove a limb, follow it back to where it joins to a larger branch or to the trunk. If you look where the two parts meet, you will see an enlarged area called the branch collar. Always prune a minimum of 2 to 3 inches beyond this point, rather than flush with the branch or trunk. In time this outer part of the tree will grow beyond this stub almost as if it was never there.
If you have not pruned it before or it has been a while, you could have to remove several limbs. Do not be afraid of this. Remember to try preserving their natural shapes and not hack it all up. Trunks can often be removed next to the ground, though this generally causes suckers to start shooting up during the summer months.
Always cut them straight and smooth. If the branch cracks or it breaks before you finish cutting it treat it with something to protect the crape myrtle tree from bugs or diseases. Only take off a little bit at a time. It is easier to cut a little bit than waiting for them to grow back.
Tragically most people are uninformed about the damages they cause when they cut these trees back to almost nothing. This generally leaves an unnatural brush looking stumps where there was a beautiful and majestic tree standing. Many times this will not only cause the growth to become stunted but can also lead to them growing into an unnatural sickly bush like shrub.
Just as there is a correct time to prune them there is also a proper way to prune them. Many times people severely cut them back thinking this will help them produce more flowering branches the following years. In truth this often causes a shorter blooming time, weaker branches and delayed flowering. This practice is as harmful as it is unnecessary for most trees.
Generally late winter or a few months before spring-time is typically best for pruning them. The best method to use is to try enhancing its naturally unique form rather than attempting to force it to take an unnatural shape or form. In a properly pruned tree, the branches will grow up and out not up and then branching into the center.
Look at the tree and follow its trunk and limbs up. Try to look more at the inner than the outer edges of it. The branches you find which twist into other branches at the inside of the plant should be removed. Many people also cut out limbs that are growing incorrectly or is twisted up in a strange and unnatural way.
To remove a limb, follow it back to where it joins to a larger branch or to the trunk. If you look where the two parts meet, you will see an enlarged area called the branch collar. Always prune a minimum of 2 to 3 inches beyond this point, rather than flush with the branch or trunk. In time this outer part of the tree will grow beyond this stub almost as if it was never there.
If you have not pruned it before or it has been a while, you could have to remove several limbs. Do not be afraid of this. Remember to try preserving their natural shapes and not hack it all up. Trunks can often be removed next to the ground, though this generally causes suckers to start shooting up during the summer months.
Always cut them straight and smooth. If the branch cracks or it breaks before you finish cutting it treat it with something to protect the crape myrtle tree from bugs or diseases. Only take off a little bit at a time. It is easier to cut a little bit than waiting for them to grow back.
About the Author:
If you would like to own a crape myrtle tree, check out www.crapemyrtlefarms.com. For low prices on these beautiful trees, visit Crape Myrtle Farms today at http://www.crapemyrtlefarms.com.
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